Patch & Pot
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Lesson 6

Planting and maintaining a pollinator garden

Pollinators do not care whether you garden in pots, borders or a balcony — they care about flower density and season spread. A small space planted intelligently beats a large garden planted thoughtlessly. Three large terracotta pots of Salvia nemorosa, Nepeta and a late aster will support pollinators from May to October.

Plant in bold groups, not dotted singles. A clump of five Verbena bonariensis is a landmark that pollinators can navigate to from 50 metres away. One verbena is invisible. This is especially true for spring bulbs — plant crocus, snowdrops and winter aconites in drifts of at least 50 bulbs. Pollinators are more efficient when they can work the same flower repeatedly without flying far.

Resist the urge to tidy in autumn. Dead stems of Persicaria, Verbena, Echinacea and sedums provide overwintering sites for ladybirds, lacewings and solitary bee larvae. Leave them standing until March, then cut back just before new growth starts. Similarly, let some patches of long grass stand through winter — many insects pupate in tussocks at ground level.

Water in prolonged dry spells — flowers under drought stress produce far less nectar. A snap-on hose connector and a trigger-spray lance will let you water individual clumps without soaking everything. Mulch borders with homemade compost or leaf mould in late autumn to suppress weeds and retain moisture through summer, but keep mulch clear of plant crowns to avoid rot.

Numbers that matter

  • Plant at least 5 different species that flower in spring — one is not enough
  • Aim for something in flower in every month from March to October
  • A 2m × 1m border can support 12–15 perennials planted in groups of 3
  • Water new plantings weekly for the first 8 weeks if rainfall is under 2.5cm per week
  • Mulch depth: 3–5cm — deeper risks stem rot, shallower lets weeds through

How to plant a succession border for pollinators

  1. 1.Choose a sunny spot — at least six hours of direct sun in summer.
  2. 2.Dig in a 5cm layer of compost or well-rotted manure; rake level.
  3. 3.Plant in groups of 3–7 of the same species, spacing them two-thirds of their mature width apart.
  4. 4.Arrange plants so early, mid and late flowerers are interspersed — avoid blocks that all finish together.
  5. 5.Water everything in thoroughly; mulch between clumps with compost, avoiding stems.
  6. 6.Deadhead repeat-flowerers like Nepeta and Salvia after the first flush to trigger rebloom.
  7. 7.Leave late-season seed heads standing — asters, Echinacea, Verbena — through winter for insects and birds.
  8. 8.Cut back dead stems in March just as new shoots appear at the base.

If a plant flowers for only three weeks, it should either be spectacular, very early, or very late — otherwise choose something with a longer season or a second flush.