Lesson 5
Propagation and succession
Salvias root from cuttings with ridiculous ease. In late August or early September, take 8–10 cm lengths of non-flowering side shoots from the current season's growth. Strip the lower leaves, dip the cut end in hormone rooting powder if you have it (you barely need it), and insert four cuttings around the edge of a 10 cm pot filled with 50:50 multipurpose compost and sharp sand or perlite. Water once, cover loosely with a clear plastic bag, and place on a shaded windowsill. Roots appear in 10–14 days. By mid-October you have small plants that will sit happily on a windowsill all winter and grow into flowering-size specimens by June.
This technique works for almost every salvia — tender, borderline and hardy alike. It is how you insure your collection, how you make gifts, how you turn one expensive Salvia 'Amistad' into eight. For tender types like patens and guaranitica, cuttings are often more reliable than lifting the parent plant. For borderline types like microphylla, cuttings give you a backup if the mother plant dies over winter. For hardy types, cuttings let you expand a drift without buying more plants.
Seed propagation is less predictable because many garden salvias are hybrids that will not come true. But species salvias — patens, sclarea, viridis, horminum — are easy from seed sown in March at 18–20°C. Germination takes 10–18 days. Prick out seedlings when they have two true leaves; pot on into 9 cm pots; grow on in good light; harden off in May; plant out after the last frost. From a March sowing, you will have flowering plants by late July.
Common mistakes
- Taking cuttings in June when plants are flowering — they root poorly and want to bloom rather than grow roots
- Using garden soil for cuttings — it is too heavy and rots the stems before they root
- Overwatering cuttings — they want moist compost when inserted, then very little water until roots appear
- Leaving cuttings in full sun — they wilt and fail; dappled light is ideal until rooted
Taking salvia cuttings that always work
- 1.Choose firm, non-flowering side shoots 8–10 cm long in late August.
- 2.Cut cleanly just below a leaf node with a sharp knife or secateurs.
- 3.Strip all leaves from the lower half of the stem.
- 4.Optional: dip the cut end in hormone rooting powder.
- 5.Insert four cuttings around the edge of a pot filled with 50:50 compost and sand.
- 6.Water gently once; cover loosely with a clear bag; place in bright but indirect light.
- 7.Check after 10 days by tugging gently — resistance means roots have formed.
- 8.Pot individually into 9 cm pots once roots are 2 cm long; grow on in a cool bright place.
If you have no space for overwintering whole plants, six small rooted cuttings in 9 cm pots take up less room than a dinner plate.