When and how to cut for maximum vase life

Harvest timing is everything. Cut in early morning when stems are turgid and sugars are at their peak. For most flowers, the ideal stage is when buds show colour but have not fully opened — they will open indoors and last twice as long. Exceptions: cut dahlias and zinnias when fully open; they do not develop further once cut. Larkspur and delphiniums should be cut when the bottom third of the spike is open. Roses want the 'bent neck' stage — when the bud is swollen and the neck just begins to curve.

Use sharp secateurs or scissors and cut at a 45-degree angle just above a leaf node or side bud. This angle increases the surface area for water uptake and encourages the plant to produce more stems. Plunge cut stems immediately into a bucket of cool water — ideally, take the bucket into the garden with you. Strip all foliage that would sit below the waterline; submerged leaves rot and shorten vase life. For flowers with milky sap (euphorbia, poppies), singe the cut end with a flame for five seconds to seal it.

Conditioning is the professional's secret. Once inside, re-cut stems under running water to prevent air locks, then stand them in deep water in a cool, dark place for at least two hours — overnight is better. This hardens the stems and maximises water uptake. Change vase water every two days, re-cutting stems each time. Add a drop of bleach (one drop per litre) or a copper coin to inhibit bacteria. Avoid placing arrangements in direct sun, near ripening fruit (which produces ethylene gas), or in a draught.